Lena Horne Dress Pattern Release by Tabitha Sewer

Do you follow anyone online who has an inexplicable magnetism? Something about them is just special and you can’t help follow their every move. Tabitha Sewer is one of those people for me! She is a light in the sewing and maker community, bringing energy and color to every post. I love how Tabitha constantly shares what others are doing/making, keeping the focus not only on her own creative endeavors, but that of others as well!

Today I am OVER THE MOON excited to share the Lena Horne dress, designed by Tabitha and online at Joann’s. This is Tabitha’s first sewing pattern and there are so many fun elements (surprise surprise)! The most notable feature of the dress are the ruffle straps that crisscross in the back and come over the bust to end at the waistline. This on-trend detail makes a feminine statement and adds just the right amount of drama. :)
The Lena Horne dress also has inseam pockets and a side zip feature. Function and form…the best!

The Pattern: The Lena Horne Dress by Tabitha Sewer, soon available at Joann’s stores
The Fabric: Tropical Leaf Rayon Cotton Voile from Blackbird Fabrics
The Process: I began by pre-washing both my lining and main fabric. Tabitha has you line just the bodice of the dress, but due to the more sheer nature of the rayon cotton voile, I chose to line the skirt as well.
After cutting out the pattern, I simply followed Tabitha’s instructions and started piecing the dress together. The ruffle straps were the trickiest bit and you need to roll them into the inner-workings of the tube you create to pull them through. I’ve heard this called the ‘burrito method’. Tabitha has a video tutorial which is immensely helpful if you get stuck at any point in the process.
There isn’t mention of finishing most seams, that is something I would change for the next time I make the dress…finishing all seams before construction.
Modifications: I sewed a straight size 4. The only modification I made outside of lining the skirt was to extend the zipper all the way down to the top of the pocket (into the skirt about 2 inches). I thought this would allow me to get in/out of the dress more easily.
Styling & Versatility: This dress is a stand-alone dress that speaks for itself! I chose to style it for a beachy summer look with bright heels and a straw purse. I think it could be super cute styled with sneakers as well!
Overall Review: DARLING dress design by a DARLING lady, Tabitha! Definitely an intermediate pattern, but with the help of the video tutorial, this dress becomes immensely doable!

I’m incredibly grateful to Tabitha for reaching out and sending me her first pattern! She was a joy to communicate with and I can’t wait to see where her journey goes!
As always, thank you to my incredible photographer and friend, Jill Burrow, for taking these photos and being ever-patient with this gangly non-model trying her very best. :)

Classic Button Up with a Twist

Hello friends! After a Lenten sabbatical, I am back to sewing…and just in time for this lovely spring we’ve been having.

One of my very favorite wardrobe staples are my white button-up tops. Tie them up, tuck them in, wear them with jeans, wear them with a pencil skirt…gah…they are just so timeless and versatile. So when I saw the cover of the McCall’s M7838, my heart did a little leap. A classic button-up with a statement sleeve…I’m in!
I found this incredible grid fabric at Joann’s and *gasp* paid full price for it (something I never do!). But sometimes a fabric calls out to you in a way that demands your full attention and pocket-book. ;) I knew this fabric and pattern were a match made in sewing heaven.

The Pattern: McCall’s M7838
The Fabric: Rayon-poly blend by Joann’s (They’re ‘Spring Garden’ collection)
The Process: This was my first time EVER making a collared top and doing a full button placket. It was a bit of a risk since I had invested in the fabric, but I’m so glad I went for it! I was also hesitant b/c the fabric has a subtle wavy pattern in the grid lines and I wasn’t sure how it would work with interfacing, but the fabric was dreamy to work with and washes well to boot!
Normally I crank out my projects pretty quickly, but with this top I really took my time. I focused heavily on making sure the ruffles were spaced evenly, the grid was perfectly vertical, and I even re-attached the collar 3 times to get the spacing right and loose some annoying puckers. A LOT was learned along the way. :)
The top has 17 button holes and buttons. That’s right, SEVENTEEN! So I utilized my new Singer Quantum Stylists to it’s fullest potential and enjoyed the button hole and button sewing feet. It went well and the finish looks so professional!
Modifications: I sewed a straight size 8 after making a quick muslin to ensure the shoulders weren’t too tight (after my duster had been a bit snug, I wasn’t taking any chances!). I followed the pattern instructions as closely as possible, but in hind site, my first full collar and button placket should have been with an indie-pattern. The instructions for this top are SPARSE, so I relied heavily on intuition which worked out OK, but some further hand-holding would have been appreciated. Indie designers tend to provide ample guidance and pictures for the more tricky bits…something I greatly appreciate!
Styling & Versatility: Y’ALL. I love me a good white button up. I can’t wait to try layering this under something like the York Pinafore. Wouldn’t that be cute!? I think I may tuck it into a midi-skirt this spring as well as throw it on with my torn up Levi’s . White button ups are so timeless, I believe this will linger in my wardrobe for years to come!
Overall Review: Love the top! Don’t adore the sparse instructions. But, if you have experience with collars and packets…you will be fine!

Thank you to my lovely photographer, Jill, for these photos!

Stylish Fabrics + Trend Patterns Raglan Dress Hack

As soon as the new year rolls around I anxiously await the arrival of spring! Lighter layers, warmer days, green buds emerging from the ground. These things make my heart soar!

In honor of spring’s soon arrival, I decided to make a lighter-weight statement dress and experiment with a style I’ve been intrigued by for a while…prairie chic.

The Pattern: Trend Pattern Raglan Dress (TPC22)
The Fabric: Crepe chiffon c/o Stylish Fabrics
The Process: My idea for this dress was ‘go big or go home’. I had a vision in my head and it was either going to be GREAT or awful, no middle ground. Thankfully, I think it all worked out and I really love the outcome! The striped pattern of the crepe fabric helped modernize the prairie style. I sewed a straight size 8 (UK sizing) even though I was between the size 8 and 10. The style of the dress has so much ease I figured it would be better to size down so I wasn’t swimming in all the fabric. The directions for putting the pattern together were quite minimal to the point I think I would have struggled to make this as a beginner sewist. Thankfully it isn’t a super complicated pattern so I made it through just fine.
Sara from The Sara Project just happened to share a blog post with tips for working with rayon and crepe right as I was putting this dress together. It’s definitely worth a read and I found it very helpful with this make!
Modifications: I made 2 very doable changes to the original design of the dress. First, and most notably, I added a dramatic ruffle to the bottom. To do this I shortened the finished dress length to hit just below my knee. Then i measured (with the dress on) the length from the bottom of the unfinished dress to where I wanted the dress to hit at my feet. I then calculated seam and hem allowance and that gave me my length. For width, I simply used a 1:2 ratio, doubling the circumference of the dress to get the desired volume. Originally I was hoping to do a 1:3 ratio but didn't have enough fabric. In the end I’m thankful for the outcome bc I think the volume is just right and doesn’t feel too heavy. This is a modification that can easily be done with many dresses or tops to add length or a bit of flair!
The second addition I made was adding the waist tie. I wanted the dress to give me some kind of shape and this was just the ticket! I simply eyeballed the width and used the length of what fabric I had left for the sash.
Styling & Versatility: You could definitely say there is a lot going on with this dress. Between the back tie closure, deep keyhole, waist tie, neck ruching, high neck feature, AND the ruffle and the bottom…it’s a statement. But I’m glad I went big and had fun with it. This whole process stretched my vision-to-fruition muscle and I’m excited to keep trying such adventurous makes.
To keep the dress a little toned down, I style it with a classic pair of Converse sneakers, unstyled hair, minimal makeup, and minimal jewelry. In the future I will try a more ‘dressed up’ version, possibly with an updo and some strappy black heels.
Overal Review: Y’all, I had FUN with this one. Can you tell? :) Working with the crepe-chiffon (thank you Stylish Fabric) was a new experience so I walked away with new skills there. Hacking the Trend pattern was a leap for me so I walked away feeling more confident in my ability to cast a vision. And lets talk about the photos! My incredibly talented friend, Jill, shot this dress for me and I’m so please with how it all came out. You can see more of her styling and art direction via her Instagram page.

Highlands Wrap Dress

To wrap up Me Made May 2018, I'm sharing my latest make...the Highlands Wrap dress by Allie Olsen. This has been in the works for a while because my serger was in the shop for a few weeks, but my wrap dress is finally complete and I'm in LOVE!

As someone with a very small bust (34 nearly A) wrap dresses don't typically fit me. They can be so flattering on women who have curves because they wrap and accentuate all the right places. But when you are practically shapeless, wrap dresses can sag, gap, and overall hang in a very awkward way. 
With hesitation I decided to try Allie's version. It looked like it could work for my body type and, of course, since I'm making it, I could alter it to fit along the way.
I'm happy to report this dress fits me like a glove! My very first wrap dress!

The Pattern: The Highlands Wrap Dress by Ali Olsen (of Indie Sew)
The Fabric: Possibly my favorite part of this dress is the story behind the fabric! I found this crazy lime green fabric at an estate sale for $3. On a whim I bought it (lime green is definitely outside of my color comfort zone) and I thought I may just use it to make muslins. BUT, then I had the idea to overdye it with blue and see what happened. To my delight, it took the RIT dye beautifully and the color is one I feel myself in. Yay! 
The Process: The PDF pattern is quite large, but I printed, taped, and cut the straight size 0. Following Allie's instructions, I put the dress together with no modifications. The fabric was super thick at some points (I veered from her fabric recommendations and went with a heavier weight fabric) and I even had to hand sew the side seams where the elastic, waistband, button flaps, and ties met. It was just too thick to get under my machine.
While assembling the waistband I used wash away wonder tape to help create a nicer seam. That stuff is so helpful!
Given the heavier weight of the fabric, I chose to sew up the shorter version of the dress. I love the vents on the side, this helps the dress breath and move nicely.
In hindsight I would have cut out the button flaps (that help keep everything nice and in-place) in a thinner fabric. Those areas are all hidden, thankfully, but on mine they are a bit bulky.
Modifications: I made no modifications. Straight size 0.
Styling & Versatility: This is one of 2 dresses I have ever sewn and I'm extremely pleased with it. I think it's casual enough to wear to church and feel a bit put-together, but could easily be dressed up for a wedding or a fun date-night. I feel like this is a timeless dress I could see myself wearing for the rest of my life. That's a good feeling!
Overal Review: Classic wrap dress pattern that is friendly to smaller frames. Not a beginner pattern by any means, but definitely doable!

Cocoon Dress

The Pattern: Cocoon Dress by Simple Sew
The Fabric: Linen in green for the dress (sourced second hand). Linen-blend in lime green for the pockets and facing (cut from a second hand dress).
Modifications: I didn't make any modifications to the shape or length of this dress, I did however use a few finishes they didn't call for.
After learning how to understitch with my Ogden Cami, I chose to understitch the facing and pockets. This was important because I used a different fabric for these areas and didn't want them to show. I'm hooked on understitching. It really adds a great finish that makes a garment feel higher quality and prevents small annoyances that lead to it being pushed to the back of the closet.
I chose to sew up the side seams and pocket bags all at once (they suggest doing it separately), and it turned out great.
I also overlocked the pockets, shoulder, side, and front seams before assembling. 
Styling & Versatility: The cocoon style is one I've been drawn to for a while but I hadn't found just the right pattern...until this one! I love the clean lines that make this piece one that can be styled up or down. The center front seam gives it just enough interest and the pockets are a mama-must-have. I can see myself wearing this in weekly rotation this fall with booties as the temps drop. Wouldn't a long linen jacket look great over this too? 
(My necklace is by my friend at Soil Stone Co.)
Overal Review: I LOVE this pattern and already have another dress in the works! The pattern has a sleeve option that I can't wait to try with some linen I purchased at Fancy Tiger Crafts. I highly recommend this pattern (although be warned it doesn't come in a pdf and it has to ship from overseas). It's a great one for a beginner because of its simplicity. There are no buttons or zippers.
Lately I've been hooked on very simple aesthetics, clean lines, and ease of wear. This fits the bill in every way.